Iguazu Falls, Steak, Red Wine and bomb blasts in Argentina and Bolivia

Cush looking out over part of the Iguazu Falls

Visiting the Itaipu Dam

The ‘Devils Throat’, Iguazu Falls, Argentina

After indulging in Brazilian hospitality for the best part of 5 weeks, we had some serious km’s and some long bus rides ahead of us to get to Northern Bolivia. Thankfully there would be some amazing side missions to keep us entertained along the way. We quickly made our way to the tiny town of Foz do Iguazu, the launching pad to the Brazilian side of the much famed Iguazu Falls. With some time up our sleeve we first took in a tour of the Itaipu Dam, an engineering and diplomatic marvel that supplies 17% of Brazil’s and 75% of Paraguay’s electricity. That’s a lot of power from one bloody big dam. The Iguazu Falls themselves are another one of those huge ticket items in South America and despite Cush getting sick on arrival, some torrential rain and an aggrivating hold-up at immigration, we managed to take them in from both the Brazilian and Argentinian side. It was a pretty awe inspiring experience. While the Brazil side gives you a total view of the massive number of waterfalls, the Argentinian side dwarfs it in the sheer intensity as you stand over the main waterway. Comparisons in travel can be a bit of a nonsense but while standing at the devils throat both Cush and I agreed it was the most impressive sight of mother nature we’d ever seen.

On the road, Salta, Argentina

After a quick catch up with our Melbourne friend Nicole, it was time for a monster 29 hour bus mission to the Northern Argentina town of Salta. Since finishing with Carnival in Brazil it had been a non-stop schedule of travel and sightseeing and Salta finally bought the chance of some relaxation. It’s a small town with a lot going on around the region, so we decided to splurge and hire a car for the day to explore on our own schedule. With no idea of the road rules, or the speed limits we managed to take in some amazing views as we initially headed to Cafayate. It’s worth noting that after driving for 10 hours the road rules and speed limits were still a complete mystery. The general attitude seems to be hammer the horn and hope for the best.

Bolivia Border Crossing

Our respite from overnight travel was short lived as we made our way to the unimpressive Aguas Blancas and the border with Bolivia. This border is really only used by the locals and we were a bit apprehensive about the safety of crossing so far off the beaten track. We needn’t have worried. The initial customs official was so excited to meet some New Zealanders, he looked through our passports in awe before marching us into the office and proudly declaring “these people are from Nueva Zealanda!” We were stamped and on our way in minutes. Arriving in Bolivia was like an instant jump back to earlier parts of our holiday. Back to a land where buses don’t leave until they’re full, and when they do leave they share the road with cars that are 20 years past there used by date and whatever herd of animals happen to be wandering around. After the expense of Brazil and to a lesser extent Argentina, it was also nice to be back in a land where $4 got us a 3-hour shared ride to Tarija.

Tarija Wine tour, Bolivia

This is wine and steak country for the Boliviano’s, and we quickly set about enjoying both. The cafe town is plush with eateries where you purchase your steak by weight, trying not to fill up on the side on offer as you delicious and ridiculously cheap wine. After a couple of days of eating, drinking and wandering we thought it was time to do something a bit more active, with a wine tour the most obvious choice. The thing with places like Bolivia, is that on a wine tour the driver/tour guide isn’t shy to get involved in the tasting. By the end of the afternoon we’d tasted wines that ranged from delightful to disgusting, the lowlight occurring at the La Casa Vieja winery, where they simply filled a large glass with foul tasting vino which was then passed from person to person for a taste. Not the sort of treatment you get in Malborough. We thoroughly enjoyed Tarija, a town where you could relax in a restaurant on the plaza with a bottle of wine, while watching firework shooting protesters who each day appeared to be upset over something or rather.

Quickly settling into the Bolivian pace of things, we arrived in the mining town of Potosi, home to the Cerro Rico mine, the worlds highest altitude city and a whole host of history. Once the most profitable mine in the entire Spanish Empire, Potosi is now the poorest region, in the poorest country of South America. The mountain is known as the mine that eats men, as thousands of locals

Cush and I ready to hit the Cerro Rico Mine

scratch out a living from the remaining silver deposits. We took a tour of the mine, where former workers take you inside for a pretty daunting look at some horrific working conditions. We met a couple of miners, one who was apparently 38 but looked like he was in his 60’s.

Chilling with one of the miners, Cerro Rico Mine, Bolivia

It’s tight, the air is thick and it’s a pretty horrible place, but it’s a way of life for these people, with kids as young as 10 allegedly working and something I think is important to witness. As is the way in these places there’s always something extreme, before you reach the mine you first stop at a local market to buy the miners some gifts ranging from coca leaves, to cigarettes to dynamite!! After a quick consultation with our guide, some extra dynamite was purchased to be used in an ‘demonstration’ explosion while we were inside. It’s a special kind of place that lets a random person walk into a shop and buy a stick of dynamite for $3. Bolivia was off to an exciting start.

Cush hiding from the sun in Salta, Argentina

Nights Stayed – Fox Do Iguacu – 1, Salta – 3, Tarija – 3, Potosi – 2 plus no less than 3 overnight buses

It’ll cost you – Argentina was a slight reprieve from Brazil, but still quite expensive. Bolivia on the other hand appears to rival Ecuador for the cheapest country in South America. 100B ($14) for a half day tour of the mine.

Quote of the week – “The fuse is lit and we apparently have 3 minutes before explosion. BOOOOOM!!! F##k that was not 5 minutes” – Oh how I love explosives

Exploding time, Cerro Rico Mine, Bolivia

What grinds my gears – So, Kiwi’s get a free 90 day holiday visa on arrival into Brazil. For some reason, which couldn’t be explained by anyone at our exit border, when we entered we were wrongly given just a 30 day visa. We stayed 34 days. So after 2 Federal Agents spent 1 1/2 hours looking at a computer and writing things down, the end result is if we ever re-enter Brazil we’ll be required to pay a 22real ($11) fine. We’ve seen some doozies, but this one takes the cake for the most inefficient behavior

Stay at – The Koala Den in Potosi. We did our mine tour through them as well

Best feed – XOXO Resturant in Tarija. Get the big breakfast – coffee, fresh fruit juice, fruit salad, eggs on toast, and caramel pancakes – all for 33B ($4.50).

If you’re interested – in learning more about the Potosi mines, the 1 hour documentary ‘The Devil’s Miner’ which follows a 14 year olds life working the mines is well worth a watch. It’ll blow

Squeezing into some tight spots, Cerro Rico Mine, Potosi, Bolivia

your mind and put some perspective on the ridiculous notion of educated people talking about kiwi kids ‘living in poverty’

Some fun facts –  As much as 450,000 cubic feet of water travels over the Iguazu Falls every second. That’s twice as much as Niagara Falls. Prior to building the Itaipu Dam, 10,000 Brazilian families were made homeless to clear the required area. It’s estimated that during the 300 years the Spanish were in charge 8 million slaves died in the Potosi mine.

Don’t miss – The Iguazu Falls belong on your must see list

We got here – The hard way. Overnight bus from Florianopolis to Foz do Iguazu, 29 hour overnight bus from Puerto Iguazu to Salta, overnight bus and share taxi from Salta to Tarija (12 hours) before a 9 hour bus from there to Potosi. That’s a lot of bus